Month: October 2018

A Bugatti Chiron created entirely from Lego bricks has made its UK debut in London this week.

The driveable model, which is made up of 1,000,000 individual pieces, was joined at the launch at H.R Owen’s dealership in Mayfair by a real-life Chiron.

Though the production Bugatti is capable of hitting a 261mph top speed, its model stablemate delivers a somewhat slower figure of 18mph – partly because of its robust 1.5-tonne weight.

After making its debut, the Lego Chiron will be embarking on a tour of three further locations throughout the UK.

Built over 13,000 man hours, the Lego Bugatti features a functional speedometer built entirely from Lego pieces, and even incorporates a functioning rear spoiler. An incredible 2,304 Lego motors have been used in order to get the car moving, too.

Lena Dixen, senior vice-president of product and marketing for the Lego Group, said: “This life-size model is a first of its kind in so many ways, and with it we wanted to push the boundaries of our own imagination.

“For over 40 years, Lego Technic has allowed fans of all ages to test their creativity with a building system that challenges them to go beyond just creating new designs – to also engineer new functions. It’s a fascinating example of the Lego Technic building system in action and its potential for creative reinvention.”

There are no plans to put the scale model into production – though those wanting to recreate it could theoretically head to a Lego shop and buy the pieces to construct it.

The Lego Bugatti Chiron will be at Westfield London in Shepherd’s Bush tomorrow, followed by Westfield Stratford on November 3 and finally Bluewater Shopping Centre on November 8.

As far as car parts go, tyres are one of the most important – but also one of the most neglected.

Tyres are the car’s only contact with the road, and as such can make a huge impact on not just the driving experience, but also vehicle safety.

To keep yourself safe on the road, and to also get the best out of your car, it’s important to maintain the rubber on each wheel. Here are our tips for making the most of your tyres.

Cheap isn’t always the best

While it may be tempting to go for those £40 tyres from a brand nobody’s ever heard of, you could be doing more harm to your wallet in the long run.

A good set of tyres may cost more, but you’re likely to get better grip from them — helping to keep you safe. They will usually have a longer life too, saving you more down the line.

If in doubt about which tyres to fit to your car, consult your vehicle owner’s manual for manufacturer recommendations.

Keep them well inflated

Underinflated tyres have a higher rolling resistance than those at the correct level, increasing wear on the sidewall. To keep your tyres lasting longer, regularly check pressures and keep them at manufacturer recommendations — which can be found in the owner’s manual, and inside the door sill of many cars.

Watch the tread

Tread is the part of the tyre that contacts the road, and as a result, wears out. Not only is it important to ensure you have a good amount of tread for your own safety, it’s also a legal requirement to have at least 1.6mm of it on all four tyres.

An easy way to tell if your tread is sufficient is to place a 20p coin between the grooves. If any part of the rim of the coin is visible, then it’s time to get a new set of rubber.

Optimise your driving style

Find your right foot often pinned to the floor? Brake heavily? Corner hard? You’re probably doing some harm to your tyres.

A smoother, more consistent driving style puts less stress on rubber and results in less wear — ultimately meaning more time between changes, and less hit on your wallet.

Stay aligned

If your car’s wheels have gone out of alignment, the tyres will see more stress on a smaller contact patch. The result is quicker and uneven wear.
If you notice an uneven level of wear, take your car to a specialist to have alignment checked and corrected if necessary.

Rotation equals elongation

No matter how careful your driving style, new your tyres are or even if they’ve all been fitted at the same time — they’re going to wear unevenly.

This is usually down to where the power is sent. On most cars, the fronts will wear much faster than the rears – in most cases, they’re tasked with delivering power to the road, steering, and most of the braking. To get more life out of your tyres, swap the fronts and rears — most mechanics will do this during a service or MOT anyway, but it’s always worth asking beforehand if you’re not confident of doing the task yourself.

Rotating your tyres is also a necessity on cars with a part-time four-wheel drive system. These systems require all four tyres to be virtually identical for the best performance.

Seasonal rubber

While all-season tyres can offer plenty of grip all year round, splashing out for season-specific tyres can keep prepared for all eventualities.

Although ultimately more expensive, having a set of rubber for both summer and winter can leave you safer on the roads and also see less time between buying new tyres. Summer compounds operate at higher temperatures, offering better grip in hotter weather and lasting longer than harder rubber — which could potentially blister on hot surfaces.

Winter tyres operate at lower temperatures and also tend to have much more tread — ideal for clearing rain, snow and slush in the colder months of the year.

Check the spare tyre

It’s easy to forget about looking after a spare tyre — after all, you’ll ideally never have to use it.

In the event of a tyre failure though, it’s going to come in handy, so you’ll want to ensure its prepared to keep you safe before putting on a replacement tyre. Ensure the rubber hasn’t perished, and that it’s inflated to a good level.

If you’ve ever discussed or looked into cars with any depth, you’ve probably come across the term ‘turbo’.

Many vehicles of the past and present have boasted a turbo — short for turbocharger — under the premise of efficiency and, perhaps more commonly, gains in performance.

Not sure what one is? Let us explain…

What is a turbocharger?

A turbocharger is a turbine-driven device that forces air into an engine’s combustion chamber — increasing power and improving efficiency.

In non-turbocharged engines, more commonly called naturally-aspirated, air is fed into the chamber at atmospheric pressure. While this is a reliable method, it means the engine is less efficient at mixing air with fuel. Turbochargers force extra air into the equation, increasing power and improving efficiency.

How does it work?

A turbocharger is made of two components — a turbine and a compressor. The two are linked, with exhaust gases forced out of the engine at a high pressure and into the turbine. When the turbine spins, so does the compressor — with the latter sucking air into the engine like a vacuum.

What’s the benefit?

The big benefit of a turbocharger is large gains in performance. As more air is dumped in, more power is created — meaning a turbocharger is an efficient way to boost engine output, particularly in the case of smaller capacity units.

As small-capacity turbocharged engines can make as much power as large-capacity naturally-aspirated units, manufacturers can also make cars more efficient yet provide the same performance — which is why many new cars today are turbocharged.

Is there a downside to turbocharging?

While a turbocharger may seem like the answer to every problem, it’s not all rosy.

They can be expensive to fit as an aftermarket item, and they can be unreliable, particularly when used in high-performance applications — with replacement units coming at a significant cost.

Also, although the turbine can spin up pretty quickly, there is still a small delay in feeding the extra air in. As a result, engines that rely heavily on turbocharging for power can see a delay in delivery — commonly known as ‘turbo lag’.

Are there any alternatives?

There is one alternative to turbocharging — supercharging. Superchargers produce a similar effect to turbos, in forcing more air into the engine for increased power, but the way they do it is significantly different.

In most forms, a supercharger is driven by the engine rather than exhaust gasses via a pulley, and then sends air into the engine through a compressor. The advantage is more responsive power delivery compared with a turbo, but as superchargers require power from the engine to drive them, the gains can be less fruitful.

Which cars use turbochargers?

With ever-strict emissions regulations, most modern cars — petrol and diesel — will use turbocharging, improving fuel consumption and lowering CO2 emitted when compared with larger engines.

Turbocharging is commonly used on performance cars for a boost in power as well, with famous boosted monsters including the Porsche 911 Turbo, Nissan Skyline GT-Rs and recent McLaren supercar.

Halloween is creeeeeeeeping up on us as it does every year, and pretty soon you won’t be able to move for discount sweets, children dressed as zombies and a mounting sense of dread as you realise your doorbell’s going to be ringing all night.

Planning a spooky halloween getaway to avoid the crowds? We’ve shortlisted eight of the world’s scariest cars you could consider for a real October holiday in style.

Prices for cars on this list range from under £1,000 to over £300,000, so there’s something to suit every budget. Whether you’re after a sports car with a speedy sting in the tail, or a wraith-like apparition that can silently creep up on anybody, we’ve got you covered.

Rolls-Royce Ghost

The Rolls-Royce Ghost is eerily silent and scarily powerful, but it’s the ‘Ghost’ moniker that qualifies it for a place on this list. After all, what’s spookier than a spirit?

In fact, Rolls-Royce has several model names that would make it onto this list – including Shadow, Wraith, Spirit and Phantom – but Ghost is straight to the point.

Reva G-WIZ

Imagine the scene. You’ve just finished up on a date – it’s all gone very well, and you think you’d like to see them again.
“How are you getting home?” they ask you. You took the bus. “Oh, don’t worry, I’ll give you a lift back,” they reply, taking a key from their pocket.
You head out to the car park.
You walk past the BMW 1 Series, the Volkswagen Passat and the Honda Jazz – normal, average cars.
You see your date heading towards a dark, shadowy figure.
“Please,” you whisper to yourself. “Anything but that.”
It’s the size of a Little Tykes Cozy Coupe.
It’s as safe as a Little Tykes Cozy Coupe.
It’s got a cutesy sticker on the back, and the panel gaps are wider than your finger.
It’s a Reva G-Wiz.
It’s an electrically-powered deathtrap that should never have existed.
It’s the biggest threat to your personal safety since your mother sent you that link to a story about killer clowns.
And unfortunately, the only choice you have now is to run away.
Far away.
Quickly.

Chevrolet Corvair

Few cars are influential enough to have entire books written in their honour, but the Corvair holds that rather dubious title. A quirk of its swing-axle suspension led to a title by activist Ralph Nader – scarily named ‘Unsafe at any Speed’.

The Corvair – along with many other cars of the time – was horrifically unsafe, and Nader’s book scared the authorities enough that soon things like rollover protection, soft-touch dashboards and even seatbelts became legal requirements. It was the damning of the Corvair in Chapter One that led to the model’s demise, noting its propensity for dangerous oversteer, its tendency to roll over and irresponsible manufacturing decisions.

Mercedes-AMG G 63 6×6

Monsters are often huge and seemingly deformed, and that’s exactly why the Mercedes-AMG G 63 6×6 is in this list.

Think of the regular G 63 as a zombie horde — powerful in nature, a little scary, but ultimately not the strongest thing out there. The 6×6 is like the tank of those — taking everything up a whole notch. Retaining the powerful drivetrain, this beast adds — you guessed it — an extra axle, allowing it to hunt down anything across all terrains even better than before. Be afraid.

Dodge Viper RT/10

There’s no horror story behind the Dodge Viper RT/10, but stepping in one will send shivers down your spine like no terrifying tale ever could.

Conceived back in 1991, the hardcore machine packed a monstrous 8.0-litre V10 sending 450bhp to the rear wheels. It’s a real Frankenstein creation too, with a truck-sourced motor stuck into a fibreglass body. And there’s no driving assists here either — it’ll take pure driving skill to stop this snake biting.

Mystery Machine

Like, zoinks! No list of scary vehicles would be complete without the iconic Mystery Machine – faithful transport for Fred, Daphne, Velma, Shaggy and Scooby Doo since 1969. Canonically, the Mystery Machine was formerly owned by a band – the Mystery Kids – before it passed into the hands of Scooby and the gang, ready to travel from spooky hotel to abandoned theme park to creepily cobwebbed power station.

In fact, the Mystery Machine’s probably harder-working than most emergency service vehicles – fearlessly travelling into and out of crime scenes for over four decades. That’s enough to put the jinkies up anyone.

Fiat 124 Spider

Spiders are scary, let’s all just agree on this. The creepy-crawly creatures are the stuff of many nightmares — and no matter how big or small, hairy or not, they could spook anybody.

Fortunately, the Fiat 124 Spider is an exception to this rule. While it may have something of an aggressive face, there’s a loveable side to this little Italian arachnid. Mazda MX-5 roots mean it’s a playful little thing, while Italian flair gives it a lustful personality. This is one spider you wouldn’t throw out the window.

Chrysler Voyager

The inoffensively-styled American minivan known as the Chrysler Voyager may not seem the scariest vehicle around, but wait until you see the havoc it can wreak on its occupants in a crash. When tested by Euro NCAP, the first-generation Voyager fared so badly in the frontal impact test that it scored no points.

Even clever Stow’N’Go seating and a comfy ride couldn’t woo buyers, and the Voyager skulked at the edge of the MPV class, threatening to crush children in its capacious interior, until the much-improved second-generation model arrived in 2007.

Big changes have come in the way that new cars are tested for fuel economy and CO2 emissions.

The Worldwide Harmonised Light Vehicle Test Procedure — or WLTP, for short — will be a new measure for these things. But what exactly is it, and what does it mean for car buyers? We explain…

What is WLTP?

WLTP is a measurement which manufacturers must use to test fuel consumption, CO2 emissions, carbon monoxide emissions (CO) and nitrous oxide (NOx) on new vehicles, as well as the number of particulates.

WLTP replaced NEDC (New European Driving Cycle), which last saw an overhaul way back in 1997.

What does that mean for me?

Unlike NEDC, which uses lab conditions to simulate driving, WLTP is based on real-world data and theoretically gives more realistic figures than those of its predecessor.

Simply put, figures manufacturers claim your car can achieve will be more within reach than ever before — although as the cars won’t be bombing down the M1 or stuck in Camden traffic at 5pm during the test procedure, don’t expect them to be exact.

So, what happens during a WLTP test?

The WLTP test will be longer in time and length than the NEDC in an effort to provide more realistic results.

The WLTP test is 30 minutes long and covers 14.4 miles. It includes a mixture of conditions and environments – such as urban, city, rural and motorway driving. By comparison, the NEDC test was 20 minutes long and 6.8 miles in length – covering just two types of roads.

The WLTP trial will also vary depending on the type of vehicle being tested and will change on account of a vehicle’s power-to-weight class. Whereas the NEDC had a fixed gear-shift point, the WLTP test will have different point to change gear according to the vehicle. It will also consider lower test temperatures than that of the NEDC as well.

When did WLTP come into force?

Brand-new vehicles introduced by manufacturers since 2017 have been required to undergo the WLTP tests, though every car on sale since September 1, 2018, must have met the requirements. As a result, many models have seen recent overhauls, and some have even been quietly dropped from line-ups.

Does this affect electric cars and plug-in cars?

Yes, plug-in hybrid vehicles (PHEV) and all-electric cars will also be tested under WLTP rules, which means you can expect more realistic electric ranges, alongside more accurate fuel economy figures for PHEVs.

Hybrids are a little more complex as they will be tested numerous times with various charges on their batteries, from full to empty. This should give a better indication than some of the inflated figures that manufacturers claim plug-in hybrids can achieve.

Could my road and company car tax increase if my car is found to be less efficient?

While manufacturers have to meet WLTP requirements from September, the figures won’t have to be publicly published until 2020 due to the complexity of testing every engine and trim level on each car.

As a result, NEDC figures will still be used as the basis of working out road tax charges and Benefit in Kind company car tax bills for now.

This also means that you won’t see any increases initially when buying new as the government has yet to clarify when these will be changed — and any tax changes will only affect cars registered from 2020 onwards. Cars purchased until then will also be unaffected.

How will efficiency figures be stated?

Currently, NEDC figures are reported ‘urban’, ‘extra-urban’ and ‘combined’ fuel economy figures. That’s going to change though, with WLTP using ‘low’, ‘medium’, ‘high’, ‘extra high’ and the ‘combined’ to state fuel efficiency figures.

Oil is to an engine like oxygen is to humans — an absolute necessity to keep it going.

An engine consists of several metal moving parts, creating a lot of friction. Oil works to prevent these components from wearing out quickly and failing.

It is, however, a consumable product, and as such requires regular checking and the occasional change to keep your car running smoothly. Not sure how to check engine oil? Here’s how…

Look for the manufacturer guidelines

Before doing anything, get out the owner’s handbook for your vehicle. In there, you’ll find information about oil recommendations for the vehicle and how often the lubricant should be changed. Although it’s vital to regularly check the oil, if you’re approaching an interval then it’s even wiser to have a look as you could risk serious damage to the vehicle if you go above the suggested mileage for a change.

Prepare the car

To get an accurate picture of your car’s engine oil, there are a few steps to take in order to prepare the vehicle before taking a look.

Park on level ground and allow the engine to cool down for at least 10 minutes if it’s warm.

Locate the dipstick

Pop the bonnet and find the dipstick for your car. On most modern vehicles, it’s usually bright yellow and easy to see. You may have been asked to locate it on your driving test, but if you didn’t — or you’ve simply forgotten — the vehicle handbook should be able to help.

Grab the tissue

Once you’ve found the dipstick, pull it out and wipe it with a clean tissue. Use this as an opportunity to locate the oil indicator markings, which are usually either two small holes or raised bumps. Then, place the dipstick back in.

Check the oil level

Once again, remove the dipstick but this time lay it flat on another clear piece of tissue and look where the oil comes up to. If it’s between the indicator markings, then you’re at a good level.

If it comes below, then you need to add more oil — or run the risk of increased engine wear. Too much? The oil will foam up and result in poor lubrication, and ultimately less friction. While you can opt to drain the oil yourself from underneath the car, it’s always best to seek professional help if this is needed.

For many drivers, the increasing price of fuel, complicated and fragile emissions control systems and the threat of looming taxes on petrol and diesel cars are enough to make them consider switching to an electric vehicle. The good news is, it doesn’t have to be daunting, difficult, or even expensive.

In fact, for many drivers an electric vehicle makes more sense than a petrol or diesel one. EVs have several inherent advantages, even beside their lack of tailpipe emissions. They’re smooth and simple to drive, notably in town conditions. They can cost pennies to run, especially if you make use of home charging wherever possible. And they’re even cheap to maintain, as their powertrains contain only a few moving parts and put less strain on consumables such as tyres and brakes.

However, they’re not perfect. With limited range, long charging times and a questionable infrastructure, electric vehicles won’t suit everyone.

Here are the factors you need to consider before buying an electric car.

Where do you live?

This one’s important. Sorry to say it, but if you live out in the sticks an EV probably won’t be the best choice. People who live in or near major towns and cities are best placed to make use of an EV – they’re ideally suited to town driving and can be charged up at public charge points, which tend to be on main routes.

Also consider your home. If you’ve got a driveway or garage that’s ideal, as you’ll be able to fit your own charging station. A few companies offer these, and they tend to be plumbed directly into your home’s power supply. A car that would take a whole night to charge from a standard 3-pin plug socket can be topped up in a few hours from one of these charging points.

Flat and apartment dwellers aren’t quite so lucky, although many new-builds are being provided with spaces in which to charge an electric car.

What kind of journeys do you do?

There’s a wide array of electric vehicles on the market, with models capable of barely 100 miles on a full charge rubbing shoulders with high-mileage heroes able to rack up around 300 miles. Unsurprisingly, in most cases you pay more for cars with a higher range.

If you regularly undertake long trips you’ll still be much better off with a diesel car. The electric car infrastructure isn’t yet developed enough to allow for long journeys without a degree of forward planning – you’ll need to work out in advance where to stop and charge.

Even that doesn’t come with total peace of mind, as maintaining a functioning network of charging points is proving beyond the abilities of some firms. You may find the chargers simply don’t work as they should and force you to go away and search for another – all while the charge is dwindling.

Electric cars work best for drivers with predictable journeys of a reasonable length. Have a 50-mile commute? Absolutely perfect. You’ll be able to get to and from work without an issue in most cars on the market and it’ll cost you mere pennies.

You must also bear in mind the effect that different types of driving have on the battery. Regular motorway use will see your range tumble, as will driving in winter with heating, lights and wipers all running. It’s always best to leave a buffer of range wherever you go.

Do you enjoy driving?

This is an interesting dilemma. Electric sports cars and supercars do exist, but they’re far beyond most people’s budgets. The majority of drivers will be looking at something around the size of a traditional hatchback.

Around town, most electric cars of this size are extremely enjoyable to drive. They offer instant torque and will outrun many a hot hatchback up to 30mph or so. In addition, regenerative braking allows you to drive on a single pedal, making things very easy and quite a lot of fun.

On faster roads though, serious petrolheads might miss the involvement that a combustion-engined sports car can bring. EVs are heavy, often lack power at the top end and don’t offer the theatre of a screaming petrol engine.

What’s your budget?

Electric vehicles are expensive for car manufacturers to build, and although prices have come down there’s still a premium to be had over their conventionally powered brethren. For the price of a 113bhp Volkswagen e-Golf, for example, you’d be able to bag a range-topping GTD – with 80bhp extra and lots of toys.

However, once you’ve got your EV you shouldn’t need to dip too far into your pockets to run it. Charging an electric vehicle is very cheap compared with fuelling a petrol or diesel car, and unless it costs over £40,000 to buy then vehicle tax is free.

Maintenance is easy too. Comparing a combustion engine to an electric motor is like comparing sudoku to The Very Hungry Caterpillar – EVs have barely any moving parts, so the powertrains should be flawlessly reliable. Use of regenerative braking means consumables such as tyres and brakes last longer too, and of course you won’t need to change the oil, fan belt, auxiliary belt or coolant. Nor will you need to regularly top up with AdBlue, as with most modern diesel cars.

What are my alternatives?

If an EV doesn’t suit your lifestyle just yet, don’t panic – there’s always the halfway house of a hybrid or plug-in hybrid. These offer several of the advantages of EVs – including a few miles of pure electric range, low emissions, cheaper tax and impressively low running costs – but eliminate range anxiety, as they can be filled up with fuel just like a conventional car.

Hybrids and PHEVs are still rather expensive to buy, though, and may not offer anything like the advertised fuel economy, depending on your usage.

As with any new car purchase, it’s all about research, research and more research. Consider your driving style, check out electric charging points near your home or workplace, and make a note of your driving habits. Buying the wrong car is a very expensive mistake, after all.

Nevertheless, if you can buy and run an electric car, then please do. Owners often love them, and you’ll be part of a flourishing community that’s improving the environment.

Big changes have come in the way that new cars are tested for fuel economy and CO2 emissions.

The Worldwide Harmonised Light Vehicle Test Procedure — or WLTP, for short — will be a new measure for these things. But what exactly is it, and what does it mean for car buyers? We explain…

What is WLTP?

WLTP is a measurement which manufacturers must use to test fuel consumption, CO2 emissions, carbon monoxide emissions (CO) and nitrous oxide (NOx) on new vehicles, as well as the number of particulates.

WLTP replaced NEDC (New European Driving Cycle), which last saw an overhaul way back in 1997.

What does that mean for me?

Unlike NEDC, which uses lab conditions to simulate driving, WLTP is based on real-world data and theoretically gives more realistic figures than those of its predecessor.

Simply put, figures manufacturers claim your car can achieve will be more within reach than ever before — although as the cars won’t be bombing down the M1 or stuck in Camden traffic at 5pm during the test procedure, don’t expect them to be exact.

So, what happens during a WLTP test?

The WLTP test will be longer in time and length than the NEDC in an effort to provide more realistic results.

The WLTP test is 30 minutes long and covers 14.4 miles. It includes a mixture of conditions and environments – such as urban, city, rural and motorway driving. By comparison, the NEDC test was 20 minutes long and 6.8 miles in length – covering just two types of roads.

The WLTP trial will also vary depending on the type of vehicle being tested and will change on account of a vehicle’s power-to-weight class. Whereas the NEDC had a fixed gear-shift point, the WLTP test will have different point to change gear according to the vehicle. It will also consider lower test temperatures than that of the NEDC as well.

When did WLTP come into force?

Brand-new vehicles introduced by manufacturers since 2017 have been required to undergo the WLTP tests, though every car on sale since September 1, 2018, must have met the requirements. As a result, many models have seen recent overhauls, and some have even been quietly dropped from line-ups.

Does this affect electric cars and plug-in cars?

Yes, plug-in hybrid vehicles (PHEV) and all-electric cars will also be tested under WLTP rules, which means you can expect more realistic electric ranges, alongside more accurate fuel economy figures for PHEVs.

Hybrids are a little more complex as they will be tested numerous times with various charges on their batteries, from full to empty. This should give a better indication than some of the inflated figures that manufacturers claim plug-in hybrids can achieve.

Could my road and company car tax increase if my car is found to be less efficient?

While manufacturers have to meet WLTP requirements from September, the figures won’t have to be publicly published until 2020 due to the complexity of testing every engine and trim level on each car.

As a result, NEDC figures will still be used as the basis of working out road tax charges and Benefit in Kind company car tax bills for now.

This also means that you won’t see any increases initially when buying new as the government has yet to clarify when these will be changed — and any tax changes will only affect cars registered from 2020 onwards. Cars purchased until then will also be unaffected.

How will efficiency figures be stated?

Currently, NEDC figures are reported ‘urban’, ‘extra-urban’ and ‘combined’ fuel economy figures. That’s going to change though, with WLTP using ‘low’, ‘medium’, ‘high’, ‘extra high’ and the ‘combined’ to state fuel efficiency figures.

So, you’ve decided to sell your car – and as you don’t mind putting in a bit of extra work in order to achieve the best price, you’ve decided to list it privately rather than trading-in to a used car dealer or using an online buying service.

But you won’t get the best price for your car without some real effort, and there are some habits you should adhere to when putting your car up for sale. After all, your advert is the first thing a potential buyer will see – so make it a good one.

Here we’ve rounded up some tips on how to advertise your car in the best possible way.

Prepare the car

First of all, no matter if it’s a £500 banger or a £50,000 luxury limo, your car deserves a clean before being listed for sale.

Depending on the condition of your car, you can get pretty in-depth into this process. At the bare minimum we’d suggest vacuuming the inside, washing and shampooing the exterior (using the appropriate products and tools) while also cleaning the wheels. Some messes are beyond that, though, and will require targeted cleaning products.

We’d also suggest trying your best to remove any stains on the interior – they could be a real turn-off to potential buyers.

Take good photographs

List your car with a blurry photo of the rear three-quarter panel and you’re very unlikely to receive many calls about it. Potential buyers want to see absolutely everything, so take your time and make sure you’re picturing your advert with the best possible photos.

First, make sure the car’s clean, then park it in good light – ideally out of direct sunlight to prevent reflections. Then, get snapping! At a minimum, buyers will want to see the exterior of car from the front, rear, and all four three-quarter angles. You should take pictures of the dashboard, front and rear seats, and boot.

Next, you’ll want to capture detail shots. Focus on any issues with the car – a buyer isn’t going to trust you if you purposefully conceal that massive dent on the rear door. A picture of the engine bay is good to have too, and photos of any kerbing on the wheels is also preferred. As a final peace of mind, it’s good practice to photograph the mileage on the dashboard.

If you have a great camera, then use it, but most modern smartphones will have good enough cameras to take perfectly serviceable pictures for car adverts. However, if you are using a phone, make sure you’re using it in landscape orientation for the best results.

Research

Before you write your ad, take a moment to research – both the model you’re selling and your specific car. You should collect up any paperwork, including ownership documents and particularly service history, and start checking through.

It’s an offence not to disclose whether a car has had significant work done to it, so check through old invoices and service records – particularly if the car had a life before your ownership too.

Does your particular car have any desirable options fitted to it, such as a sunroof, metallic paint or heated seats? Mention them. Does it have a full service history, or only partial? Has it had regular maintenance done recently, such as a cambelt change? What condition are the tyres in? Any non-standard modifications?

Familiarise yourself with everything – not only will you be able to write a more detailed advert, you’ll be able to answer any questions potential buyers may have.

Writing the ad

Resist the temptation to regress back to GCSE level creative writing and stick to the facts. Buyers want to know as much information about the car in as short a time as possible, but they also want to be reassured that they’re buying the car from an owner who’s responsible. A good first impression pays.

With that in mind, consider writing a short introduction detailing the car in brief, your history with it, and your reason for sale. Then, list the remaining features in bullet points.

It’s absolutely essential to include:
– The car’s year
– Specific mileage (if the car’s still in use, mention the mileage will increase)
– Service history details
– Number of owners
– Colour (in plain English – most of the time, the manufacturer shade is meaningless)
– List of equipment
– Price
– Location
– Contact details

Avoid abbreviations unless you’re using a site with a limited word count. Don’t use clichés, either – nobody cares if it’s had ‘one careful lady owner’ and ‘first to see will buy’ is wishful thinking rather than fact. Buyers know all of these trite expressions and it will make your ad look insincere.

Listing your ad

A wide-spread net catches more fish, so list your ad in several places to ensure it gets seen. With that being said, make sure you’re using appropriate websites – a 2008 Nissan Micra doesn’t belong on a classic car website, and your Chrysler Grand Voyager will not be appreciated on the classifieds page of the Porsche Owner’s Club.

Finally, be engaged with your advert. Respond to potential buyers quickly and fairly, and if any changes need to be made, do so quickly and accurately.

At the end of all this, you should be able to bag a healthy sum for your used car – more than you’d get from a trade-in or buying service. Enjoy your extra cash!

What is it?

Say the words ‘BMW 8 Series’ to any car enthusiast and you’ll probably get wet shoes as they melt into a puddle, babbling about V12 engines and pop-up headlights. Now, the contemporary 8 Series isn’t quite as instantly iconic or quirky as the original, but it’s an important step for BMW – a car that can challenge ultra-luxury offerings such as the Mercedes S-Class Coupe, but in true BMW fashion – by placing driving dynamics and passenger enjoyment rather than comfort at the top of the list of priorities.

What’s new?

The 8 Series is an all-new car, so while it shares plenty with other BMW models, under the skin the overall package is like nothing else in the range. Initially, it’s exclusively available as a two-door coupe, but BMW will also introduce convertible and four-door ‘Gran Coupe’ variants to the line-up. All will share the same trio of engines, too. It also occupies a new market sector for BMW, sitting between truly focused sports cars such as the Porsche 911 and genuine luxury models such as the S-Class Coupe. Forthcoming four-door models will also rival the Porsche Panamera.

What’s under the bonnet?

Although there will be a 40d diesel model available, we drove the M850i – a step down from a full-fat M car but still packing a 4.4-litre V8 with 523bhp. It’s paired with an eight-speed torque converter automatic gearbox, and the combination is simply brilliant.
Power – as you’d expect from such hefty numbers – is ample, and the 8 Series always feels like it has more to give. The gearbox is silky smooth when you’re just ambling around at low speeds, but put your foot down (and whack it into ‘Sport’ mode) and changes are ferociously quick. That’s backed up by the figures – 0-60mph arrives in 3.5 seconds and top speed is limited to 155mph.
Despite being turbocharged, the V8 gives plenty of punch right through the rev range, and in the upper echelons it roars like a tiger – though how much of this is artificially generated, we’re not sure. Regardless, it’s an impressive powertrain and one we wouldn’t hesitate to recommend, despite the obvious cost and economy penalties over the diesel.

What’s it like to drive?

BMW’s sporting heritage is clear to note as soon as you begin to press on. The 8 Series isn’t a darty, quick sports car like a Porsche 911, but the fluidity of its handling, the ease with which it grips in fast corners and the way it simply gobbles up a twisting road means it’s incredibly satisfying to drive.
Two aspects of the 8 Series help it in the corners – four-wheel drive and four-wheel steering. The former is BMW’s well-known xDrive system, which in the 8 Series is rear-biased for greater poise but can push all the power to the front wheels if necessary.
The latter works as most systems do, turning the rear wheels in the opposite direction for faster and tighter cornering at slow speeds, or in the same direction for greater motorway stability. It really works, too – this feels like a far smaller car than its 4.85-metre length would suggest, although the sensation of the rear shifting by itself does take some getting used to.
Meanwhile, ride comfort is a good middle ground between the pillowy softness of an S-Class and the hardened sports suspension of a Porsche 911.

How does it look?

Having quite a good day today. Again not allowed to say what the car is like, but the location is brilliant. pic.twitter.com/UD9q0F1RNY

— Tom Wiltshire (@mctreckmeister) October 20, 2018

The 8 Series has seriously elegant proportions – a long bonnet and rear deck, flowing lines and a compact passenger cabin. A few styling details don’t sit too happily on this frame, though – the traditional ‘kidney’ grilles look a little too stylised and don’t play totally naturally with the super-slim LED headlights, while the rear’s complex interplay of surfacing, shutlines and aerodynamic controls is a little messy from some angles. Yet the overall shape and a few features such as the double-bubble roof are just wonderful.
It’s worth mentioning the car is extremely spec-dependent, too. The vehicles we drove were all covered in black detailing on the window line and front grille as well as having black alloys. Models that feature chrome detailing look totally different – less sporting and a little classier.

What’s it like inside?

Inside, it’s classic BMW – which is a good and a bad thing. The driver-focused cabin is simplicity itself to use – all the controls are well situated and the iDrive infotainment system is one of the best in the business. There are some intricate touches just for the 8 Series as well, such as a cut-glass gear knob and infotainment selector. The driving position is also perfect, and infinitely adjustable.
If we’re being critical, though, there’s little of the ‘wow’ factor that you get with some rivals. This cabin would be equally at home in a 5 or even 3 Series, and we’d quite like a little more than just a shiny gear selector to mark it out as the brand’s flagship.
In practicality terms, a big coupe has never been the most spacious of things – but we’d have liked a little more legroom in the rear of the 8 Series. Thankfully, the forthcoming Gran Coupe should solve that and bring an extra pair of doors into the equation, too.

What’s the spec like?

As expected for a car costing well over £70,000 (almost £100,000 in 850i form) there’s a good level of spec on offer. Clearly, climate control, cruise control, electric seats, adaptive LED headlights, a whole suite of safety aids and a wireless charging pad all come as standard, but the options list has a few things to offer. We’re big fans of the M-striped seatbelts, front seat ventilation and soft-close doors, and it’s also possible to option an exterior carbon-fibre package for an even racier look.

Verdict

The 8 Series is a seriously impressive coupe and one that shows BMW’s ability to blend the luxurious with the sporting is still alive and well. It doesn’t feel quite as special as some rivals, however – a Porsche 911 is still far better to drive, while a Mercedes S-Class Coupe trumps it on luxury. So the appeal of the 8 Series will depend on whether you see it as the best of both worlds or an uncomfortable middle ground. We’re leaning towards the former.

• Model as tested: BMW 8 Series M850i xDrive Coupe
• Price: £100,045
• Engine: 4.4-litre twin-turbocharged V8
• Power: 523bhp
• Torque: 750Nm
• Max speed: 155mph
• 0-60mph: 3.5 seconds
• Fuel economy: 29mpg
• Emissions: 224g/km
• Rivals: Bentley Continental GT, Porsche 911, Mercedes S-Class Coupe